Introduction to a Movement

On the eve of his London Fashion Week runway show, American fashion designer Conner Ives grabbed a deadstock white T-shirt, stamped the words Protect the Dolls onto it with transfer paper, and pulled it over his head. No brand strategists. No marketing campaign. Just raw instinct — the kind leaders need to adopt more but rarely do.

The Dolls? Transgender women — a community facing escalating attacks on their rights, visibility, and safety. In queer communities, “doll” is a term of affection, pride, and belonging — a coded word that speaks volumes without explanation.

The next night, as Ives took his bow at the end of the fashion week catwalk, the Dolls T-Shirt didn’t just land — it detonated. It tore through social media, dominated fashion rankings, and hijacked global headlines. Conner Ives hadn’t just designed a T-shirt, he had triggered a marketing movement. And within 24 hours, over 2,500 orders flooded in — each one supporting Trans Lifeline, a community-driven organization providing crisis support to trans people in need.

From Slactivism To Cultural Power

For years, slogan tees were dismissed as slactivism — easy gestures without real substance. So how did Protect the Dolls hit differently? It wasn’t just a statement, it was a shield. A visible call to arms at a time when trans woman visibility is being ripped apart — in courts, in legislation, and in public discourse. The Dolls T-Shirts weren’t selling fashion, they were selling solidarity.

When I wore a "Orban Love Wins" message across the back of my Gucci jacket on the red carpet at the MTV EMAs in Budapest, Hungary, in 2021, it didn’t just generate support from the local LGBTQI+ community — it made global headlines. At the time, Hungary’s Prime Minister Viktor Orbán had recently pushed through legislation in 2021 that banned the depiction of LGBTQI+ content to minors, part of a broader crackdown on LGBTQI+ rights. In a country where state-sponsored discrimination was becoming law, the message wasn’t just a fashion choice — it was my act of protest, a show of solidarity, and a public stand against political repression.

Why Language Matters More Than Ever

It wasn’t just what Conner Ives said. It was how he said it. Protect. The. Dolls.
Short. Direct. Familiar, yet radical. In queer communities, "doll" is a term of endearment — a private language of affection and solidarity. But in the wider community, the word can sound flippant or even objectifying. From this standpoint, the slogan is polarizing but Ives didn’t care as he chose authenticity over universal approval.

As research from the Journal of Business Research shows, linguistic precision in branding isn’t decorative; it’s transformative. The right words create movements — and sometimes, they divide before they unite.
When Ives chose "Protect the Dolls" over safer slogans like "Support Trans Rights" or "Love the Dolls," he made a statement of solidarity as he didn’t aim for consensus or the safer more palatable version. He made a statement that was emotional, not clinical. Protective, not patronizing.

How A White T-Shirt Became A Weapon For Change

The ripple effect was immediate — and electric.
Pedro Pascal, beloved not just for his acting but for his visible support of the LGBTQ+ community (and brother to Lux Pascal, a trans woman herself), wore the Dolls T-Shirt alongside DJ Honey Dijon. Pop stars, Troye Sivan wore it during his Coachella set and Addison Rae wore hers on Instagram. Actor, Tilda Swinton reportedly ordered several for herself and her friends.

In fashion, often times this kind of celebrity endorsement feels choreographed, but here, it felt urgent — and real. The intersection of celebrity influence and grassroots activism created the perfect storm.
Meanwhile, across the pond, the UK Supreme Court handed down a regressive ruling on gender definition, excluding trans women from parts of the Equality Act protections. It felt like a slap to the community of people already fighting for basic dignity. The Dolls T-Shirt wasn’t just a fashion choice anymore; it was armor.

From Statement To Stand: The New Branding Imperative

In today’s world, the brands — and the leaders — who will shape the future won’t be the ones hiding behind aesthetics. They’ll be the ones brave enough to take sides, to build brands with purpose, to defend marginalized communities, to fight for transgender women, to challenge regressive gender stereotypes, and to recognize that preferred gender is no longer an opinion — it’s a human right. The world has changed. Leadership must catch up.

Protect the Dolls reminds us that fashion is always political, whether we’re ready for it or not.
I have no doubt that American designer Conner Ives will, in part, be remembered for the night he turned a DIY graphic T-shirt into a weapon of beauty, resistance, and solidarity.
Protect the Dolls wasn’t a whisper. It was a roar.

Conclusion

Because in a culture that still debates the validity of gender recognition certificates, silence isn’t neutrality. It’s complicity. And if you’re not brave enough to wear your beliefs on a deadstock white T-shirt — I have to ask you — are you really brave enough to lead at all?
Named Esquire’s Influencer of the Year, Jeetendr Sehdev is a media personality and leading voice in fashion, entertainment, and influence, and author of the New York Times bestselling phenomenon The Kim Kardashian Principle: Why Shameless Sells (and How to Do It Right).

FAQs

Q: What is the significance of the "Protect the Dolls" T-shirt?
A: The "Protect the Dolls" T-shirt is a symbol of solidarity and support for the transgender community, particularly transgender women, who are facing escalating attacks on their rights, visibility, and safety.
Q: How did the T-shirt become a movement?
A: The T-shirt became a movement when American fashion designer Conner Ives wore it on the catwalk during London Fashion Week, and it was subsequently worn by celebrities such as Pedro Pascal, Troye Sivan, and Tilda Swinton, creating a ripple effect and sparking a global conversation.
Q: What is the importance of language in branding and activism?
A: Language is crucial in branding and activism as it can create movements, divide, and unite people. The right words can be transformative, and linguistic precision is essential in conveying a message and creating a sense of solidarity and community.
Q: What is the new branding imperative?
A: The new branding imperative is for leaders and brands to take a stand, build brands with purpose, defend marginalized communities, and recognize that preferred gender is a human right. Leadership must be brave enough to take sides and challenge regressive gender stereotypes.

Introduction to Inclusive Leadership

Significant moments impacting inclusive leadership are on the horizon. First, we’re nearing the fifth anniversary of George Floyd’s murder. Secondly, we are nearly 120 days from the signed executive order that encouraged federal agencies to highlight organizations that have engaged in illegal discrimination through diversity, equity, and inclusion. Since then, we’ve seen a lot transpire (i.e., pushes for large Corporate Boards to investigate or end DEI practices, announcements around ending or adjusting DEI goals, settlements made to avoid litigation, and reaffirmations to stay on the DEI journey). This barrage of activities is a lot for all of us to navigate, so grace is necessary to show up, respond, and navigate these times effectively. This article provides an infusion of hope, awareness, and community required to thrive during these times.

Find An Inspirational Well For Inclusive Leadership

Transparently, I’ve been astonished by the unfolding of the current landscape, its impact on this work, and the communities impacted. Hence, it’s taken some time to allow ongoing processing and action planning for the future. However, I’m grateful to have found and attended The Power of Inclusion Summit hosted by The Winters Group. The experience was therapeutic, energizing, inspiring, and educational. The event provided fuel to stay the course, and I’m inspired to continue sharing my thought leadership with the readers of this column, offering encouragement to remain committed to the inclusive leadership journey.

Three Key Takeaways That Fuel Inclusive Leadership in Turbulent Times

There were lots of takeaways from The Power of Inclusion Summit. I want to highlight some memorable ones that are helpful knowledge for inclusive leaders. Keep this event on the radar for next year’s professional development activities.

1. Use Values As A Leadership Beacon

Ben Cohen, Co-founder of Ben & Jerry’s, discussed the importance of using values as a leadership beacon in conversation with Mary-Frances Winters. Ben & Jerry’s values include human rights and dignity, social and economic justice, environmental protection, restoration, and regeneration. More information on those values is available here. Ben also talked about the 30/30/30 rule. He said 30 people will agree with what happens, 30 will take a neutral stance, and the remaining 30 percent will be against it. Consider leveraging this useful barometer to evaluate and land upon the impact we want to make as inclusive leaders. It is a great reminder that leaning into one’s values can help decision-making and navigation in these turbulent times. On a fun note, I also discovered a flavor graveyard for Ben & Jerry’s to add to my travel bucket list for Vermont.

2. Leverage Experts To Gain A Better Understanding of Legal Implications Impacting Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Goals

Kenji Yoshino from the NYU Inclusive Leadership Center unpacked the executive orders and gave concrete examples of legal or illegal discrimination. Data is powerful and can support the inclusive leadership journey. The Meltzer Center for Diversity, Inclusion, and Belonging provides a tracker around anti-DEI and pro-DEI cases. Access to this information can bring peace of mind to those worried and need factual information to continue inclusion work and effectively lead against challenges around this work. For example, the tracker highlights 12 cases around diversity training. Reading about these cases will provide the inclusive leader with helpful information for fine-tuning training strategies.

3. Embrace Change Management As A Part Of The Strategy To Create An Inclusive Workplace

Dr. Sandra Upton discussed Change Management as a strategy to improve workplace culture. She advised us to embrace our roles as change agents in our organizations. The reframing helps inclusive leaders get traction on the work needed. Dr. Upton introduced a DEI Propel Framework to help leaders implement transformational change that sticks.

Conclusion

In conclusion, staying the course as an inclusive leader requires community, education, and a commitment to values-based decision-making. The Power of Inclusion Summit provided a much-needed infusion of hope, awareness, and community to navigate the challenges of inclusive leadership. By leveraging the expertise of thought leaders, embracing change management, and staying true to our values, we can create a more inclusive and equitable workplace culture.

FAQs

Q: What is the importance of values in inclusive leadership?
A: Values serve as a beacon for decision-making and navigation in turbulent times, helping leaders stay true to their mission and vision.
Q: How can inclusive leaders stay up-to-date on legal implications impacting DEI goals?
A: Inclusive leaders can leverage experts and resources such as the Meltzer Center for Diversity, Inclusion, and Belonging to stay informed about legal implications and best practices.
Q: What is the role of change management in creating an inclusive workplace?
A: Change management is a strategy to improve workplace culture, and inclusive leaders can embrace their role as change agents to implement transformational change that sticks.

Introduction to Law & Order: Organized Crime

The Law & Order franchise has been around since 1990, and with it we’ve seen a number of different characters, themes and evolutions in the show’s approach. Season five of the newest edition to the franchise, Law & Order: Organized Crime recently went live on Peacock. The series’ new home has provided the show the freedom to explore a different, grittier format and push boundaries it previously wasn’t able to do on network television.

Evolution of the Series

One of the ways Law & Order: Organized Crime is continuing to evolve is by leaning harder into representation. Increasingly, consumers want to see themselves represented in the imagery and stories the brands they engage with and buy from put forth. That desire for representation extends to entertainment. One study showed that 74% of consumers say that representation in marketing is important to them for the brands they engage with and buy from.

Representation in Law & Order: Organized Crime

Actress Danielle Mone Truitt plays Sargeant Ayanna Bell on the series. Truitt shared that she is thrilled to be “one of the first Black women to be number two on one of these shows." Bell added that it was an honor for her to represent both Black women, and the LGBTQ+ community, of which her character is a part of. LGBTQ+ representation on the Law & Order franchise has been a topic of discussion by fans, with even a Reddit thread of fans wishing for more positive LGBTQ+ primary characters.

Historical Portrayal of Black Characters

Fans have also had lots to say about the way the franchise has historically portrayed Black characters in the past. Many felt they leaned into common stereotypes that weren’t an accurate or full portrayal of what life is like for many people within the Black community. Truitt shared this is a common problem in Hollywood, and one that she’s experienced personally. She explained that Black women, “we’re not given a full life. We’re not given, depth in our characters. There are certain tropes that are put upon us.” She went on to add, “a lot of times Black women or people of color are not put in a position to see the full spectrum of who they are as a person.”

Character Development and Representation

As a lead character on the Law & Order: Organized Crime series, Truitt’s character is able to have that depth as fans are able to see and know more about her life. During our brief chat, Truitt brought up another important area of representation, that impacts the authenticity of her character and whether or not fans are able to see themselves in her, is in how Sgt. Bell’s hair is styled. Sgt. Bell’s hair is a hit, because the styles and vision for the styles are co-created with Truitt.

Authentic Representation of Black Hair

The actress explained, “I have my hand in as far as my character’s concerned is my hair. Okay…I think that Black women being able to have agency over what they look like on screen is very, very important.” Truitt’s involvement in her character’s hair has been an evolution. She shared, “I’ve had to have many conversations with the department and the producers and networks and staff of just talking about Black hair, Black hair care, how I can keep my hair on my head.” In one study on representation in marketing, respondents had a lot to say about the poor job many brands and entertainment studios do with presenting Black women’s hair.

Conclusion

While progress is being made in both Hollywood and by brands working to engage a broader consumer base, there is still more work to do to do an even better job with representation. It is good to see shows like Law & Order: Organized Crime listening to viewers and making strides in the right direction. It’s also time for more brands to listen to customers, and make more significant progress with representation to make more authentic, rather than keeping it at a superficial level.

FAQs

Q: What is Law & Order: Organized Crime about?
A: Law & Order: Organized Crime is a series that explores a different, grittier format and pushes boundaries it previously wasn’t able to do on network television.
Q: Why is representation important in entertainment?
A: Representation is important in entertainment because consumers want to see themselves represented in the imagery and stories the brands they engage with and buy from put forth.
Q: How is Law & Order: Organized Crime improving representation?
A: Law & Order: Organized Crime is improving representation by leaning harder into representation, including LGBTQ+ representation and authentic representation of Black hair and characters.
Q: What can brands learn from Law & Order: Organized Crime?
A: Brands can learn the importance of authentic representation and listening to customers to make more significant progress with representation.